Introduction to Leather Work

Tanning and Leather Types

Tanning is the process of making leather, which does not easily decompose, from the skins of animals, which do. -- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanning

Leather

Leather has two sides, the outside and the inside. The outside, where the hair was, it called the grain side. The inside, where the rest of the critter was, is called the flesh side. Split leather is just the flesh side with the grain removed. Suede is split leather. Sometimes a faux grain is applied back to split leather for genuine leather that plays like pleather. ( Pleather being a catchall term for fake leather. e.g. the hide of the Nauga. )

Full or top grain leather is where the grain side is left alone other than hair removal. Corrected grain is where the surface has been homogenized through a sanding process.

The thickness of leather is generally measured in ounces; originally referring to the weight of one square foot of a hide. The conversion is 1 ounce = 1/64 inch = 0.4mm = 3/4 iron (industry measure). A common weight for cowhide is 8oz or 1/8 inch thickness. Because of its nature, leather will always vary somewhat in thickness.

The most commonly available leather is cattle hide; this is assumed to be the source unless stated otherwise. Few other leather sources reach the weight and size of cattle. The leather of smaller animals like goat and sheep are used for garments like gloves or parchment.

Leather is joined together by riveting, stitching, or lacing. Solid rivets go back to the Bronze Age, though their use is usually for heavier application. In modern leather work, the most common rivet is the "rapid rivet" which isn't quite the same thing.

When leather is thin enough and follows a textile pattern, it can be stitched on a sewing machine. However, most leather working techniques are done manually. Hand stitched leather is far superior to its machined counterpart. The saddle stitch technique is preferred and most common for hand stitching. The method requires thread, two needles and an awl.

Tools

At last, the good stuff. These is are all the tools that might be found in a basic leather working kit.

• Cutter. Moon Knife, Box Cutter, Sharp thing of choice.
• Bevel. You could do this with a knife, but the tool is far more consistent.
• Hole Punch. Squeezable or Whackable
• Diamond Awl. Make the hole.
• Harness Needles. Stitch the hole.
• Thread. Linen and wax or artificial.
• "Sharpie" Marker.
• Slap Mat. both for hitting and cutting

Additional Tools

• Mallet. Needed for punch.
• Shears. Under 8oz, this is handy.
• Straight Edge. Slap mat works, but these are nice when you have them around.
• Glover's Needle. And a Sailor's Palm
• Masking Tape. Wystan's little Secret
• Bone Folder. You can use wet scrap for this.
• Groover. Good for adding a simple decorative edge.

Finishing Supplies

• Dye or Stain. Don't forget a sponge for this.
• Deglazer. Acetone ( nail polish ) is an acceptable subtitute.
• Oil. Neatsfoot, Mink, etc.
• Acrylic Resolene. A modern solution. Keeps the color on and the water out with no grease.
• Edge Kote. Raw edges say, "I don't know what I'm doing."

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